Unraveling Fibers: Your Clothes Are Full of Plastic (What to Wear Instead)
Before you change into your next outfit, take a look at what’s on the label. While it won’t explicitly say “plastic”, it may say nylon, or polyester, or acrylic (or a slew of others - see below). This is because over 60% of the materials used to make clothing are plastic. And while these synthetic fibers are lightweight, durable, affordable, and flexible, they continuously shed tiny plastic fibers called microfibers, which can:
leach toxic pesticides and industrial chemicals which are absorbed into our bodies through our skin, sweat glands, and hair follicles.
Cause starvation, endocrine disruption, stunted growth, and broken down digestive systems in marine life and other species
Why are plastic fibers so terrible?
When we workout we sweat. Sweat contains oils which can help dissolve and diffuse chemicals from plastics. This means that sweat can leach chemicals from plastics, making them more easily available to be absorbed through our skin. Workout clothes, like leggings and sports bras, are designed to fit tightly against the skin, which can further increase the chances of harmful chemicals getting into our bodies.
Clothing can contain thousands of chemicals, including flame retardants, bisphenols, phthalates, and Per- and Polyfluorinated Substances (PFAs). Once in our bodies, these chemicals can have adverse health effects, such as:
Additionally, every single time we wash our clothes, over 700,000 microfibers made of plastic are being released from the laundry and into the water. So, we’re not just harming ourselves by wearing synthetics, but the environment, and everything, everywhere, all at once.
[Great film if you haven’t yet seen it] Most water treatment plants are not mandated to capture microfibers. So, whilst the fashion industry consumes 86 million Olympic-sized swimming pools of natural water resources a year (and generates almost 10% of global greenhouse emissions), it’s shoving billions of microplastics back into our oceans.
Popular Synthetic Fabrics Made Using Plastic
Polyester
Polyester, or polyethylene terephthalate (PET), dominates the fashion industry and accounts for over 50% of the global fiber market and 80% of all synthetic fibers. It’s derived from crude oil and requires an estimated 342 million barrels annually to meet demand. Despite its durability and affordability, polyester is atrocious for the environment:
Production Impact: The refinement of crude oil releases harmful chemicals and greenhouse gases, while dyeing polyester garments pollutes water with toxic substances.
Microplastic Pollution: Polyester garments shed nearly 500,000 microfibers per average wash cycle, which enter waterways and harm marine ecosystems.
Longevity Issue: While durable in use, polyester takes up to 200 years to decompose in landfills, leaving behind toxins.
Nylon
Nylon is known for its elasticity and strength, and yup - it’s another petroleum-based material. It’s widely used in tights, activewear, and outerwear, and poses significant challenges:
Environmental Cost: Producing nylon releases nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas 300 times more potent than carbon dioxide.
Resource Intensive: Nylon requires double the energy to produce compared to polyester.
Short Lifespan: Nylon garments often degrade quickly, feeding the fast-fashion cycle and adding to landfill waste.
Acrylic
Acrylic’s often marketed as a wool alternative because of its softness and warmth (itchy wool is the worst). Yet - you guessed it - Acrylic’s production and afterlife suck.
Toxic Byproducts: Made from acrylonitrile, a hazardous compound derived from petroleum, acrylic’s production releases toxins harmful to workers and the environment.
Energy Intensive: Producing acrylic requires 40% more energy than polyester.
Laundry Pollution: Acrylic sheds more microfibers than any other fabric—up to 728,789 fibers per 6 kg wash load.
Health Risks: Prolonged exposure to acrylonitrile can harm wearers, causing symptoms like headaches, nausea, and potentially even cancer (yes, acrylic nails are bad too).
Satin
Satin is often celebrated for its luxurious sheen, smooth texture, and its association with elegance, commonly found in eveningwear, lingerie, and bedding. However, the term "satin" refers to the weave, not the material itself. Satin can be made from silk, polyester, nylon, or a blend, which means its environmental impact varies significantly based on the fabric used:
Synthetic Satin (Polyester or Nylon-Based):
Petroleum-Derived: When made from polyester or nylon, satin inherits the environmental downsides of these synthetic fibers, including reliance on fossil fuels and significant energy consumption during production.
Microplastic Shedding: Synthetic satin contributes to microplastic pollution during washing, harming aquatic ecosystems.
Non-Biodegradable: Polyester and nylon satins can take hundreds of years to break down, contributing to persistent landfill waste.
Silk Satin:
Labor and Resource Intensive: While silk satin is biodegradable, producing silk requires vast amounts of water and labor, often involving ethical concerns regarding silkworm farming.
Chemical Processing: Many silk satins are treated with dyes and finishes that can introduce toxins into the environment.
General Issues with Satin:
High Maintenance: Satin often requires gentle washing or dry cleaning, increasing its overall environmental footprint.
Durability Concerns: Satin's delicate finish can wear out quickly, making garments or items less suitable for long-term use, fueling the fast-fashion cycle.
Elastane (Spandex or Lycra)
A lightweight, stretchy material made from polyurethane. It’s often blended into fabrics like cotton, polyester and nylon for activewear, swimwear and denim. Elastane is prized for comfort and flexibility. However, it’s entirely synthetic, meaning it’s non-biodegradable and contributes to plastic waste.
Elastane, spandex, and Lycra are all terms for the same synthetic fiber::
Elastane: The most common term used worldwide
Spandex: The preferred term in North America
Lycra: A trademarked brand name for elastane produced by The Lycra Company (like Kleenex or Velcro or Bandaid)
Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET)
Commonly used for polyester fabrics, PET is durable and moisture-resistant. However, it’s a significant contributor to microplastic pollution, with fibers breaking off during use and washing.
Polyamide
Another term for nylon, polyamide is widely used in activewear and lingerie. Like other synthetic fabrics, it releases microplastics and requires significant energy to produce.
Polyurethane
Frequently used in faux leather, polyurethane is a flexible plastic material. While it avoids animal use, its production involves toxic chemicals, and it doesn’t decompose.
Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC)
Often used for waterproof clothing and faux leather, PVC is one of the most environmentally damaging plastics. Its production releases harmful toxins, and it can leach chemicals throughout its lifecycle.
Polypropylene
Found in activewear and thermal undergarments, polypropylene is lightweight and moisture-wicking. Despite its functionality, it’s another contributor to microplastic pollution.
Acetate
Acetate is a shiny, soft material often used in linings, dresses, and drapery. While it’s partially plant-derived, its production involves the use of toxic chemicals, making it less eco-friendly than it might appear.
Fleece
Popular for its warmth and lightness, fleece is usually made from recycled PET bottles. While this sounds sustainable, it still sheds microplastics and contributes to pollution with every wash.
Simba, everything the light touches is actually made of plastic. Synthetic fabrics became staples of modern wardrobes because they’re cheap, durable, and easy to produce. They enable fast-fashion brands to churn out large quantities of affordable clothing, but this comes at an environmental cost.
So, what should we wear instead? Natural alternatives to synthetics.
Fortunately, there are sustainable, natural alternatives that offer comfort, style, and significantly less environmental harm. We’re not asking you to throw away or donate 60% of your clothes right away. But, as you go along, should you acquire new clothes, let’s look to these options that span plant-based fibers, animal-derived materials, manmade natural fibers, and emerging biosynthetics. Here's a breakdown:
Plant-Based Fibers
Plant-based fibers like cotton, linen, and hemp are renewable resources with centuries of use in textiles. These materials are favored for their breathability, durability, and biodegradability.
Environmental Impact: Unlike synthetics, plant-based fibers don’t shed microplastics and naturally decompose at the end of their life. However, industrial cotton farming can require heavy pesticide use and large quantities of water, and expanding crop cultivation can sometimes lead to deforestation.
Advantages: Certified organic cotton and responsibly grown hemp are sustainable choices. Hemp, in particular, thrives with minimal water and no pesticides while regenerating the soil.
Learn more about Plant-Based Fibers in this future blogpost.
Animal-Derived Fibers
For centuries, wool, silk, and leather have been prized for their warmth, texture, and versatility.
Environmental Impact: While animal-derived fibers are biodegradable, the livestock industry contributes to greenhouse gas emissions and water pollution. Conventional leather tanning often involves toxic chemicals that harm workers and the environment.
Ethical Concerns: The treatment of animals is a major consideration. Practices like mulesing (in sheep) and the slaughter of billions of animals for leather have raised ethical red flags. To mitigate these concerns, consumers can choose wool certified by animal welfare standards or opt for recycled or plant-based leathers.
Human-made Natural Fibers
Fibers like Tencel and lyocell represent an innovative middle ground. Made from wood pulp (often eucalyptus or beech trees), these materials are engineered to mimic the smoothness of silk or the softness of cotton.
Environmental Impact: Tencel production uses a closed-loop process that recycles over 99% of the water and solvents used, significantly reducing waste. It’s also biodegradable and requires less water than cotton.
Advantages: These fibers provide a luxurious feel while minimizing the chemical intensity of traditional synthetic or plant-based processes.
Biosynthetics
Emerging biosynthetics, derived from renewable resources like corn, sugarcane, and wheat, offer a promising alternative to petroleum-based fabrics. These bio-based polymers are designed to function like traditional synthetics but with a lower carbon footprint.
Environmental Impact: Biosynthetics produce fewer emissions and rely on renewable inputs, reducing dependence on fossil fuels. However, large-scale cultivation of crops like corn can compete with food production and lead to land-use challenges.
Advantages: They are a stepping stone toward a circular economy, especially when combined with advanced recycling technologies.
Sustainable Clothing Choices / Switching to Natural Alternatives
We’re not saying ditch all the synthetics right away (though, washing and wearing them less frequently will be helpful). The most sustainable clothes are the ones you already have.
When transitioning to natural fabrics, it’s essential to evaluate their overall impact holistically. Keep the following in mind:
Sustainability: Opt for materials that are certified organic, made from recycled fibers, or locally produced to reduce transportation emissions.
Environmental Impact: Choose fabrics with lower water, energy, and chemical footprints. For instance, organic cotton uses significantly less water and no synthetic pesticides.
Biodegradability & Health Impacts: Prioritize fabrics that naturally decompose, ensuring they don’t contribute to long-term waste. They’re also less like to fill your body and the planet with harmful cancer-causing, hormone-disrupting forever chemicals.
Ethical Concerns: Look for certifications like the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) for plant-based fibers, and Responsible Wool or Leather Working Group (LWG) standards for animal-derived materials.
By understanding the nuances of natural alternatives and making thoughtful choices, we can reduce our reliance on synthetic fabrics and move toward a more sustainable fashion future.
